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Montalcino
has always been a place to be conquered. Ever since the time of the
struggles between Siena and Firenze or Arezzo, not to mention the
Crusades time, when even the pilgrims were passing along the
Francigena way and used to stop at the taverns and the local inns,
nowadays those who enters Montalcino walls want to conquer it, trying to
know better the land and its fruits: the well known
Brunello wine, the Rosso or the Sant’Antimo wines or a good
Vinsanto, to get one’s mouth
sweeter.
The tourist (both Italian and
foreigner) wants to reach Montalcino for its well known tastings but
also because this protected village is a “happy island" to them: a
place where to keep the distance from the town traffic jam, the
frenzy of everyday life and all other "clichés".
Montalcino is everything but a
"cliché", it is unique, it is characteristic, it is inviting because
of its urban structure and of the Castle recalling ancient times.
Thus, nowadays the best image of Montalcino shows itself through the
most precious gift: the wine.
But who is to be charged of honours (and duties)
for giving birth and granting quality and prestige during the years
to that very well known product through a hard work but the real
Brunello’s daddy? … | |
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That’s right ... because Brunello
has really got a daddy, and his name is Ferruccio Biondi Santi. His
son Tancredi typified the vine species and laid the foundations for
the future Disciplinary.
Ferruccio Biondi Santi just
identified and selected the Brunello wine, that is the one coming
from the Sangiovese Grosso vine, on its turn a gentle chlone of
Sangiovese from Chianti. Actually he was the official "parent"
and nowadays everybody still acknowledges him as the inventor of
"Brunello" wine. The grandson Franco Biondi Santi maybe still keeps
the first bottles produced by his grandfather dated 1888.
The "Brunello" wine is the only one in Tuscany (or
better one of the very few, certainly counted on the fingers of one
hand only) that is not damaged while ageing, on the contrary ... the
more it gets old the more it gains prestige and strength. The bottle
should be placed horizontally in the cellar. |
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Before drink it, place it back
vertically and let it rest that way for almost a week as for the
eldest bottles.
Then make it reach the drinking
temperature (again 2 or 3 days). All the stages will have to take
place slowly and gradually. If the
wine is young (10-15 years old) the bottle should be uncorked 12
hours before drinking and poured off up to half its shoulder.
The elder is the wine the shorter
will be the necessary time within uncorking and drinking
operations.
The ideal glass suitable for this kind
of wine is a "balloon", smaller and rounder than the "cognac" one.
Also here, wine production, has always been faithful to those rules
established through the years in Tuscan tradition.
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Only at
about the end of the last century the first experiments were
starting to exalt and give value to the features of a unique
raw material and a unique environment.
So the Brunello is born
again and after years of improvement and ripening in barrels it
shows itself, as renewed, to the public. The borderlines of the
production area match those of the Commune of Montalcino.
The local farms offer
many pleasant and interesting wine-tourism guided tours. The Commune
of Montalcino is 40 Km south from Siena, direction Rome. The
territory is within the Orcia river valley, the Asso river valley
and the Ombrone river valley, circle-shaped with a diameter of 16 km
and a surface of 24.000 hectares. |
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Grapevine Brunello from Montalcino
(Sangiovese Grosso vine) |
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Colour Intense
rubin red, as it gets more and more aged it tends to garnet or
brown. |
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Smell Characteristic,
intense.
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Taste Dry, warm, tannic
as required, strong and harmonic.
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Alcohol 12,5 %
vol. |
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Total acidity minimum rate 5,5 ‰ |
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Production area Montalcino Commune
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The Brunello wine from
Montalcino, confirming what has been mentioned above, is a wine
coming from growing, fermenting and improvement stages of
"Sangiovese Grosso" vines (usually named in Montalcino as "Brunello
grapes") clearly bright, brilliant and vivid
garnet-red-coloured.
As the vine pest, the
phylloxera, started spreading over after the Second World War, many
local vines were lost: to save whatever can be saved, where the vine
is delicate and disease risks are strong, some root-branches,
grafted onto american stubs kept immune from the above mentioned
plague, have been introduced in the Italian wine-system.
All this did not corrupt
the quality and majesty of that superb wine from Montalcino, but on
the contrary, the taking of those counter-measures has allowed that
the Brunello can be tasted and enjoyed even nowadays (it is not the
only one that was saved, anyway ...).
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It has an intense, wide,
persistent and airy smell; you can smell scents of underbrush,
aromatic wood and a little vanilla. The best Brunello wine ever
produced, that is the one of the best crops, affords the spreading
of all these scents and grants a structure that only partly let your
most experienced tasting papillas trace a hint of tannin (that is
the substance existing in the berry skin or in the grape stalk that
in jargon you say "allappa" (transl. "sets your mouth on edge"); it
means that it gives you a sensation as if something covers the inner
part of your mouth with a film that does not let any smell or taste
enter.
If the Brunello can (and
must) be preserved and ripened for a long time in wood barrels
(French durmast, often) is just thanks to the ripening level that
the grapes reach (at least the greatest part of them) before being
put into the tanks to ferment.
As a matter of fact, the
not fully ripened grapes yet have more tannin substance that
protects the fermentation and only after a period of 5 years it
reduces itself until it disappears, leaving a wine with a unique
colour and a sharp and strong structure. |
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The Brunello is a wine
that should be drunk alone, that is without matching or debasing it
with other tastes coming from the kitchen.
The Brunello is a tasting
or a meditation wine; just to counterbalance the alcohol presence
you use to drink it at least with some bread, some flat-bread or
some noble salami, like the Cinta Senese pork meat or the Colonnata
bacon-fat.
If you want to accompany
a meal with it, it is better to do it with roasted game or stewed
meat with a very sharp taste, cooked with aromatic herbs, mushrooms
or truffles. | |
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The Brunello should be
served in large and round crystal glasses called "balloons" so that
you can smell the scent before letting it pass over the tasting
papyllas. When aged for a long time, this wine needs to be poured
into a pot for a time between 1 hour to 2 hours in order to deposit
any eventual remains, to oxygenate it and to grant all of its
structure.
The Brunello wine is
usually served at a temperature of 20-22 ° C. In the exceptional
crops 2 kinds of Brunello are produced: the Crop itself and the
Vintage. In the good but not exceptional crops simply the Vintage is
not produced.
After being almost
unknown to many people out of the production area up to the 60’s,
nowadays the Brunello wine from Montalcino, thanks to the spreading
of the information service, to the opening of specific schools,
sommeliers and wine and food diplomas, to the raising of the medium
knowledge level about food and wine of Italian and foreign people,
it is at the cutting-edge of the Italian wine panorma, as it is
spread over the international market along with few others.
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The D.O.C.G. (Denomination of Controlled and Granted
Origin) of Brunello
- Production area:
Commune of Montalcino; - Vine: Sangiovese Grosso ("Brunello");
- maximum yeld of
grapes:80q/ha;- maximum yeld in wine: 68%;
- obligatory improvement in wood
barrels : 2 years in durmast barrels - obligatory improvement in bottles: 4
months (6 months for "Vintage"); - colour: intense rubin red
tending to garnet red after ageing period; - smell: characteristic and intense scent
- taste: dry, warm, slightly tannic,
strong and harmonic; - minimum alcohol presence: 12,5 % alc./vol.; -
min. total acidity: 5 gr/lt; - minimum dry net extract:
24gr/lt; - bottling: it can be made only
within the production area; - trading: only 5 years after the grape-harvesting year
(6 years for "Vintage" version); - minimum dry net extract:
24gr/lt; -
packaging: the Brunello wine can be bottled and sold only in
Bordeaux shaped bottles.
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