THE ROUTE OF FLAVOURS IN THE CASENTINO VALLEY

THE ROUTE OF FLAVOURS IN THE CASENTINO VALLEY

Ciboviaggiando along the Arno river: the Casentino Valley

facilities along this route:

where to sleep
CASA SANSOVINO IL GIGLIO

suggest a facility along this route
Ciboviaggiando suggests:


VALDARNO WITHIN AREZZO PROVINCE
MONTERCHI
HIGH TUSCAN VALMARECCHIA : SESTINO
THE COLLI ARETINI CHIANTI WINE
OIL ROAD: FROM THE EARTH TO THE TABLE


The Casentino Valley is the northern part of the valley where Arno river, one of the most important rivers of our "boot-shaped" country, rises from its source. You can enter it through two main roads: the Consuma pass and the State Road 71; the first one links Arezzo to Florence passing from an edge through the historical villages of Strada in Casentino, Poppi and Bibbiena and bordering the crest heading to other villages like Montemignaio and Ortignano-Raggiolo.

The second one is the easiest way from Arezzo town, through the saddle of Giovi and bordering Catenaia mountain, the other mountain top that separates the Casentino Valley above Subbiano village from the Tevere Valley at Faggeta, over Caprese Michelangelo; the other way is the one that links the mentioned valley to Emilia-Romagna region through the Mandrioli Pass; you can enter this mountain pass starting from Arezzo and driving further to Bibbiena, going on through the village of Soci and going further up to Badia Prataglia.

The Casentino Valley has always been land of fights between Florence and Arezzo people. It has been also the field for the battle of Campaldino, between the historical parties of Guelfi and Ghibellini (June, 11th 1289).

Among wars and fights some people gave themselves to hermitage upon the surrounding mountain tops like San Romualdo, putting the base of the religious order of the Camaldolese monks and building up the well known hermitage.

San Francesco from Assisi went up to the rock above the villages of Chiusi (della Verna), La Beccia and Chitignano to build up the sanctuary and spread the Christian religion through the religious order that he represents, the Franciscans. On the Rock above the Sanctuary Francesco from Assisi received the stigmates, that is a symbol of Jesus Christ on the Cross.

In Poppi village you can visit a Castle dating back to 1200 and belonging to Earls Guidi, where the great poet Dante Alighieri often used to be invited. Inside the Castle there is the historical "Rilliana" Library, rich of 70.000 volumes, 600 incunabula, 800 manuscripts.

A precise territorial localisation corresponds to some of those systems, while the others can be intended as diffused in the whole area of the "ecomuseo". Furthermore, each system has a particular correspondence in the "Bank of Memory", the audio-visual archives situated at the Centre of Educational and Teaching Resources of the Comunità Montana del Casentino (as well as in the detached plant of Cetica, in the commune of Castel San Niccolò), dedicated to the material culture and the popular traditions of the valley.

In correspondence with the museum sites the rising of some teaching laboratories is also planned; these are accessoried rooms to teach to the schools and transmit even to children and boys the importance of the historical and social memory, so that they can be aware of where they come from and appreciate the most important values of the society and the environment where they live in.

For any request regarding this service, please address to:
Comunità Montana del Casentino - CRED service Service Centre and Coordination of Museum Net Via Roma 203, Ponte a Poppi (AR) Tel. +39 0575/507272 - fax +39 0575/507230
ecomuseo@casentino.toscana.it

On an interesting initiative of "Comunità Montana del Casentino" along with the Province of Arezzo and the Toscana Region the ECOMUSEO DEL CASENTINO is born, in order to promote the memory of the place.

It involves all the communes of the district: Stia, Pratovecchio, Castel San Niccolò, Montemignaio, Poppi, Bibbiena, Ortignano Raggiolo, Chiusi della Verna, Chitignano, Castel Focognano, Talla, Subbiano andCapolona and it is divided in six still developing systems:

  • SYSTEM OF THE CASTLE SOCIETY
  • SYSTEM OF THE WOOD
  • SYSTEM OF WATER
  • MANUFACTURE SYSTEM
  • AGRICULTURAL - PASTORAL SYSTEM
  • SYSTEM OF ARCHEOLOGY

THE SYSTEM OF WATER

Centre of Documentation and Water Teaching point Capolona,La Nussa

  • Information and opening time on request : Comune di Capolona - Culture Office tel. 0575/423931
  • To visit the still working Watermills; - Watermills in Falciano (Subbiano), Mr. Mattesini tel. +39 0575/422138 - +39 335/5863158
  • Grifoni watermill in Pagliericcio (Castel San Niccolò), still working , tel. +39 0575/572873
  • Bonano watermill (Castel Focognano), Bardelli Family tel. +39 0575/597465
  • Giorgini watermill (Raggiolo), tel. +39 0575-514147  

THE SYSTEM OF THE WOOD

Wood and Mountain Museum: Stia Vicolo de’ Berignoli

  • Stia Information and bookings for visit on request: Ski Club Stia - tel. +39 0575/581323 - 583965 - 529263
  • Opening: Saturday 5.30 p.m. - 7.30 p.m. Sunday: 10.00 a.m.- 12.30 / 4.30 p.m. - 7.30 p.m. July and August: Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday: 5,30 p.m. - 7,30 p.m. Sunday and holidays: 10,00 a.m. - 12.30 a.m. / 4.30 p.m.- 7.30 p.m.
    In the same plant and in the same way you can visit the Ski Museum.

EcoMuseum of Gunpowder and Smuggling

  • Chitignano, San Vincenzo Information and opening on request:
  • Commune of Chitignano - Culture Office (h 8.00 a.m. - 2.00 p.m. every day but sunday) tel. +39 0575/596713

Watermill of the Cortine

  • Legambiente, Asqua tel. +39 0575/5190
  • 91 Opening terms: since the last saturday of June to the first Sunday of September (included): Saturday and Sunday 4.00 p.m. - 7.00 p.m.
  • In summer period further opening days or extensions of opening time can be provided during special events.

EcoMuseum of Chestnut

  • Ortignano Raggiolo Via del Mulino - Raggiolo Information and openings on requests:
  • Commune of Ortignano Raggiolo - Culture Office tel. +39 0575/539214 Mr. Luigi Bianchi tel. +39 0575/514147
  • Openings: June, July, September and October - Saturday and Sunday 4.00 p.m. - 7.00 p.m. August: Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 4.00 p.m. - 7.00 p.m. Other openings on request.
  • EcoMuseum of Charcoal Burner

  • Bank of Memory of Ex-Works "Giuseppe Baldini" 
  • "Casa dei Sapori" ("House of Tastes") - Cetica - Castel San Niccolò, La Chiesa
  • Information and openings on request and bookings for teaching and gastronomical programs:
  • Pro Loco  "I Tre Confini" ("The Three Borders") Cetica,
  • tel. +39 0575/555280
  • Visit the Pro Loco web site  
  • Mail: proloco@cetica.it
  • Mauro Mugnai: tel. +39 333/1432812
  • Bar Favilli: tel. +39 0575/555019
  • Bar La Porta: tel. +39 0575/555124
  • Opening: since 1st of June to 30th of September: Tuesday 3.00 p.m. - 6.00 p.m. Sataurday and Sunday 10.00 a.m. - 12.00 a.m. and 3.00 p.m. - 5.00 p.m. 1st of October to 31st of May: Saturday and Sunday 3.00 p.m. -5.00 p.m.
    Opening: since 1st of June to 30th of September: Tuesday 3.00 p.m. - 6.00 p.m. Sataurday and Sunday 10.00 a.m. - 12.00 a.m. and 3.00 p.m. - 5.00 p.m. 1st of October to 31st of May: Saturday and Sunday 3.00 p.m. -5.00 p.m.

  • Agricultural and Pastoral System:  

  • Museum of Farmer’s House Subbiano - Castelnuovo di Subbiano Information and opening on request: Commune of Subbiano, Culture Office tel. +39 0575/423931 - Mr. Del Pasqua tel. +39 349/8542245 openings: Saturday and Sunday: 3.00 p.m. - 7.00 p.m.

  • Documentary Centre about the Rural Culture of Casentino: Castel Focognano - Torre di Ronda Information and openings on request: Commune of Castel Focognano - Culture Office tel. +39 0575/51541 Visit on request - + 39 0575/592020. Opening: July and August: Saturday 5.00 p.m.-7.00 p.m. - Sunday 10.30 a.m. -12.30 a.m.

  • Documentary Centre about the Castle Society:

  • Borgo di Castel San Niccolò Information and opening on request:
  • Mr. Alvaro Bambagini tel. +39 0575/572802 - +39 338/9680066
  • Commune of Castel San Niccolò tel. +39 0575/570255
  • To Visit  the Castle of San Niccolò: Mr. Giovanni Biondi: tel. +39 0575/5729651

  • The Museums of the System of Castle Society

  • The House of Guido Monaco and Documentary Centre about Medieval Music Talla, La Castellaccia, Information and opening on request:
  • Commune of Talla - Culture Office - tel. +39 0575/597512 On request:
  • Pro Loco "Guido Monaco" - tel. +39 338/3573501
  • Opening terms: since 16th of June to 30th of September - thursday, saturday and sunday 4.30 p.m. - 7.00 p.m.
  • The System of Archeology

    Archeological Museum of Casentino Valley, Partina

    • Commune of Bibbiena Information and opening on request: tel. +39 0575/593791
    • Coop. Oros tel.+39 0575/559447 - +39 0575/559477
    • Opening: since October to May: Saturday, Sunday and holidays 4.00 p.m. - 6.00 p.m. - June and September: Saturday, Sunday and holidays 10.30 a.m. - 12.30 a.m. / 4.00 p.m.- 18.00 p.m. - July and August: Wednesday, Thursday and Friday 4.00 p.m. - 6.00 p.m.- Saturday and Sunday 10.30 a.m. - 12.30 a.m. / 4.00 p.m.- 6.00 p.m.
    • During the summer period further opening days or extensions of opening time can be provided. Casual extraordinary openings on request for groups or Scholarships.

    THE MANUFACTORING SYSTEM

    It is made up of all vestiges of the manufacture activity, as well as of the different kinds of buildings linked to production activity. When the Communes were born, many textile manufacturers and tanneries existed along the Arno river and its most important affluents; these manufacturers used the waters to wash the wool and for the working of several hydraulic plants: there were grain water mills, fulling-mills, sawmills, ironworks, paper mills, brick kilns, ceramic factories; all of them constituted a dense social fabric where new modern working activities would be built.

    Nowadays the textile factory named TACS, producing and exporting the "Panno Casentino" ("Casentino Fabric") which is well known because of its softness and its orange or cream colours, is very important in this area; besides "Panno Casentino" the above mentioned factory produces a soft cachemire fabric, a precious vicuna cloth, and the clothing line Old Tuscany Country.

    The last one deepens its roots in the history of Tuscany and nowadays it is a witness of a timeless vogue.

    ABOUT GASTRONOMY:

    One of the most interesting gastronomic specialty in the Casentino area is the Prosciutto del Casentino ("Casentino Ham"). The operators of the "Presidio of Casentino Ham" at the Comunità Montana of Casentino (especially Mrs. Emanuela Nappini and Mr. Giuliano Gallai ) promote a local dark and rustic pork breed, remembered by the eldest local people and suitable for wild or half-wild breeding.

    The above mentioned Presidio recovered this breeding tradition that had seriously risked to be cancelled starting with some tests on the primary product. It obtained some interesting crossbreeds of "Cinta Senese" and "Mora Romagnola" breeds (two ancient native breeds from Tuscany and from the near Emilia Romagna) as well as of Large White and Landrace. These animals, according to a severe Disciplinary, are traditionally reared at the open air: the feeding is made by making the animals grazing (brushwood under oaks and chestnut trees) and adding vegetable natural products to their alimentation. The porks are slaughtered only as they weigh within 120 and 160 Kilos.

    The haunches, after being refrigerated for 24 hours are trimmed, massaged and corned. The knead for the salting is made of salt, garlic and other spices (pepper, hot pepper, nutmegs and milled juniper). After 5-7 days you take the salt off from the surface and massage again. Then you pass to another salting phase that lasts for further 2 weeks.

    Once again you eliminate the exceeding salt and leave the ham seasoning for 40, 50 days. During this process, it was a tradition to hang the ham at the fireplace warmth: for that reason you are allowed to give the ham a light taste of natural smoke (obtained by burning oakwood, beech-wood and a minimum quantity of juniper). After seasoning, strictly lasting not less than 12 months, the ham is ready.

    The whole of "Casentino" ham is roundish, lightly long and flattish, and the weight is between 9 and 12 kgs. As it is cut you can enjoy a nice red colour with a good rate of candid fat matter that does not sicken at all. The smell is intensive and pervasive and the taste is delicate You are suggested to try it as hand-cut along with soft tuscan bread and a good red wine from Colli Aretini or from the recent D.O.C. Cortona .

    Another remarkably valued produce is the Red Potato from Cetica: the tuber shape is round, globose and rather regular. The skin is purple, the eyes are deep and dark violet. The flesh is white and very finely textured.

    The potato is grown on loose, sandy, acid soils, rich in organic matter. The best qualities are obtained in areas where chestnut and beech trees are present.

    According to altitude, sowing takes place from mid-April to end-May Maturity is rather early, at the moment production is very low.

    The story of this potato is traced back to the first two decades between World War I and II so that it is thought to be a cultivar derived from the Scottish Red King Edward.

    This variety, of particular interest due to its organoleptic properties, can be very well stewed, or made into gnocchi, cooks well and has a very characteristic taste.

    The red potato from Cetica is at present only grown by two producers.

    In post-war years this variety has been progressively supplanted by higher yielding varieties from Northern Europe.

    Association for the Christmas tree promotion

    The Christian Tradition referring to the Christmas tree is very old (VII century a.C.) and is linked to S. Bonifacio cult. In the month of December of many years ago, Bonifacio saved a child’s life who would be offered to the Heathen God under a sacred oak. Thus, the big tree was cut down and under that a little pine was found and given to local people as a symbol of the new life. on that occasion that tree was named" Jesus Child’s tree".

    The Christmas trees grow up as any other ornamental tree and they constitute a cultivation that respects the environment and contributes to ameliorate the hydro-geological system of the hills and the terracings where they grow; besides, they allow the safeguard of the valley floor. The fields cultivated with pines are often areas that once ago hosted traditional mountain cultivations, as cereals or fodder that are obsolete today. Thanks to the cultivation of Christmas Trees (pines), the negligence that would cause hydro-geological problems in those areas with such a delicate biological balance like the Central Appennino Chain is avoided.

    Qualified personnel resident and working in Casentino has been cultivating these trees for more than 30 years with experience and professionality. This cultivation starts with the replantation of little plants coming from nurseries specialized in the propagation.

    Then some usual cultivating cares are taken as the containment of weeds by cutting them or by superficial intervention, and the pruning to modify the leafage: even in that sense the cultivation requests less use of technical devices for it is ecological.

    As the little trees reach the 5th or 6th year of age, you proceed in uprooting it an trading it. For protecting the activity the producers work together in the: Association for th Casentino Christmas Tree Promotion" (C.A.N.C. Ass.).

    The recipes

    Stia’s Acqua Cotta

    Four people ingredients: 5 thin-ringed cut medium onions fried in the bacon-fat (or butter) and cooked after adding liquid (water and broth even if it’s soup cube). Salt and Pepper as much as you wish and wet lightly roasted slices of bread by that broth, directly on the dishes. To satisfy the Stia people’s tastes, flavour the Acqua Cotta by adding 300 gr of chicken liver and a shaken egg per people added eventually. The livers, quickly fried in the oil flavoured with garlic have to be chopped and added to vegetables with which they have to cook for no more than 10 minutes. At that point you add the shaked eggs (not whisked); you quickly mix everything as a whole to avoid any curdling and you pour it still boiling onto the roasted bread.

    Tortelli di patate (Potato Tortelli)

    Ingredients: 1 kg potatoes, 2 eggs, 1 knob of butter, 3 tablespoons of parmesan cheese, salt, nutmeg.

    Pasta: 400 grams of flour, 50 grams of granulated flour, 4 eggs.

    Preparation: Cook potatoes in salted water, peel a strain through vegetable strainer, put in bowl and add egg, butter and Parmesan cheese, nutmeg and salt. Sift two flours, together and make crater in middle and add egg. Knead together well and leave to rest. When rested roll dough and make strips. Add spoonful of potato mixture to pasta strip. Add another strip on top and cut into triangles. Press around each triangle with fork to seal. Place in salted boiling water, cook 15 minutes and drain. Serve with butter and margarine.

    Insalata di Farro (Emmer Salad)

    Ingredients: 2-1/4 lbs (1 kg.) hulled spelt 3-1/3 lbs (1.5 kg.) frozen green beans 2-1/4 lbs (1 kg.) baby shrimp chives, salt, carrot, celery, parsley, extra vergine olive oil

    Preparation: Cook the spelt like rice in boiled, salted water for 20-25 minutes and then let cool. Cook the green beans in salted boiling water, immersed while frozen to maintain their color, then drain and chop. If the baby shrimp are frozen, immerse in boiling water for a moment, then cover with cold water. Mix the spelt, shrimp, beans and chives with olive oil, salt, pepper, aromatic herbs and serve add room temperature with a drop of olive oil. Suggested wine pairing: San Angelo Pinot Grigio or Fontanelle Chardonnay

    Scottiglia

    Ingredients: 1 onion, 2 cloves garlic, handful of parsley, some basil leaves, 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, 1chili , 1 kg calf meat, 1 kg chicken meat,, 1 kg rabbit, 1kg pig, 1kg, goose, 1kg pigeon, glass of red or white wine, 500 grams pureed tomatoes, 250 grams beef broth, 6 slice stale bread, 1 clove garlic, salt and pepper.

    Preparation: Dice finely onion, 1 clove garlic, parsley, basil and fry and add whole chili. When vegetables are fried add all meats, which have been diced, turning often. Add wine and evaporate liquid, add beef broth and finish cooking meat. Toast bread and rub with clove of garlic. Place in dish and add sauce, This can be served as a second meal without the bread.

    Baldino (Chestnut cake)

    Ingredients:  600g chestnut flour. 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil. Salt. 70g raisins. 40g pinenuts. 40g walnuts. Rosemary.

    Preparation: Sift the chestnut flour into a mixing bowl and gradually add 800ml of water, whisking continually to avoid lumps forming, until you have a smooth paste, neither too runny nor too thick, but forming ribbons when it falls from the spoon. Soak the raisins and squeeze out the excess water. Add two tablespoons of oil, a pinch of salt, the raisins, pinenuts and shelled walnuts to the batter. Pour the mixture into a shallow, greased baking tray (the cake should only be about 1cm high), sprinkle some rosemary leaves on top and drizzle a tablespoon of oil over. Put in the oven for thirty minutes. Leave aside for about half an hour before serving as the cake should be eaten either tepid or cold. For many centuries chestnuts were part of the staple diet in mountainous and hilly areas and for the poorer classes in general as they provided an inexpensive form of nutrition. The original, Florentine version of castagnaccio, which is also known as migliaccio (black pudding) in some parts of Tuscany, had only pinenuts in it. This recipe is a combination of traditional recipes from both Pistoia and Lucca which I find slightly tastier.